Hey y’all – today I’m going to show you how to add a hood to a jacket, and I’ve got a free hood pattern to share that you can use.
One day, probably sooner than I will be ready for, my boys will discover that most people shop for clothes by going to a store and trying things on. But right now, I’m not going to tell them. Because I love when they come into my studio, pick a fabric, and request an item.
So when Bean came in, picked out this Idle Wild fabric that I had a hand in creating, and asked for a Zippy Jacket, how could I say no? And I love that this kid wanted the birds specifically because they had pink in them, and that he loves Rey in The Force Awakens as much as any other characters. I hope he never feels a need to apply the world’s stereotypes to himself or anyone else.
And I added a hood to my jacket too!
Now when we went to take these photos, I knew it would be a challenge. Bean is kind of notoriously harder to photograph than Tater, though he’s very enthusiastic about wearing and getting photos of things he requested. So as we headed to the park I was wondering how long it would take to get a good shot.
And then, Tater, who usually nails his shot within 5 minutes, started talking to Bean in the back seat. I could overhear snippets, “No, you just do your face like this…” and giggling, and then 10 minutes with Tater standing over my shoulder and doing who knows what while I had the camera out and we got what I think are some of my favorite pictures of Bean ever.
I have free hood patterns for both the Zippy and Zinnia jackets that you can download here. You can download the Zippy (kids) hood HERE. And the Zinnia (women’s) hood HERE. These hoods can also work on other patterns if the neckline length is the same, but if you want to buy the Zippy or Zinnia patterns in particular, you can use the links above or you can use the Buy Pattern Now buttons below.
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So, to add the hood. You’ll need to cut the hood out of the main fabric and out of a lining; cut 2 (mirrored) of each. Then, fold the hood right sides together to line up the raw edges of the square-ish notch on the back of the hood.
You’ll stitch across the raw edges, as shown above, using a stretch stitch. Make sure, if it’s hard to tell the right and wrong sides of your fabric, that you have a right and left side of the hood. Repeat this process with the hood lining.
Place the two sides of the hood right sides together, matching up the notch seams. Sew along the curved edge, which is the center of the hood, using a stretch stitch, as shown below. Repeat with the hood lining.
Place the outer hood and hood lining one inside the other, right sides together. Match the center seams and stitch them together around the face edge (this is the straight side edge when looking at the pattern with the text right side up for reading) using a stretch stitch, as shown above (red line). Turn hood right side out and press seam.
Next, pin the outer hood only right sides together with the neckline of the jacket, matching the center seam with the center back neck. The edges of the hood should end at the edges of the zipper. Stitch, using a stretch stitch.
Finally, fold the raw edge of the hood lining under and pin that over the neckline seam. You can either stitch in the ditch of the seam on the right side or blind stitch the lining to the jacket. And you’re done!