We’re so close to wearing our new skirts! We’ll attach the waistband next. Then after that we’ll finish up the details that really make your skirt look amazing and professional, starting with the belt loops.
To begin, fuse interfacing to one of the mirrored waistband pairs. (If your interior waistband is different from the exterior one, fuse the interfacing to the interior one.) With right sides together, stitch the center back seams of both pairs (using a 1/2″ [12 mm] seam allowance) and press the seams open.
Pin the exterior waistband (the one without the interfacing) to the top edge of the skirt, matching the center back seams and notches. Each short end of the waistband will extend 1/2″ (12 mm) past the front plackets.
Stitch the waistband to the skirt using a 1/2″ (12 mm) seam allowance. Press the seam allowances toward the waistband.
Attach the bias tape to the lower edge of the interior waistband (the one with the interfacing). I like to sandwich the waistband inside the bias tape and secure with wonder clips, as I find they hold it all a little straighter than pins do.
Then, stitch the bias tape in place. Check occasionally to ensure you’re catching the underneath layer of bias tape. (Alternately, you can unfold the bias tape and stitch it to the waistband right sides together, then refold around the raw edge and stitch again to secure.)
With right sides together, pin the bias-finshed waistband to the exterior waistband (the latter is already sewn to the skirt). Starting at the bottom of one of the short ends (which is jutting a little past the front placket), stitch up the short end, across the top long edge, then down the other short end. Use a 1/2″ (12 mm) seam allowance for this. Tip: Avoid stitching too close to the placket on the short ends — leaving the tiniest bit of space there will avoid the waistband/placket looking pinched when you turn it right side out.
Clip the corners carefully and turn the waistband right side out. Press well.
Topstitch all 4 edges of the waistband. Now we move to the belt loops!
Take your belt loop strip and finish both long edges with a serger or overlock stitch on your sewing machine. (You can use a zigzag here, if that’s what you have available.) Press the long edges in to the wrong side of the strip (they’ll overlap). The finished width should be a scant 1/2″. Topstitch down both long edges.
Cut the belt loop strip into 3″ (76 mm) long pieces, which will create 5 or 7 loops depending on your size. Press the short ends of each loop 1/4″ (6 mm) to the wrong side. The pressing is optional, but I find that it helps for better control when I’m stitching them to the skirt.
For sizes XXS-L, place a belt loop on each of the front, sides and center back seams, aligning them with the flat fell topstitching. For sizes XL-3X, you’ll also place a belt loop on each of the back/side back seams. I like wonder clips here too — pins struggle with this many layers.
Stitch in place using a bar tack stitch (a short length, medium width zig zag).
There it is, that’s it for today! We’re in the home stretch – tomorrow it’s just attaching pockets and snaps, then our awesome new skirts are complete.